Agreements Among Climbers on Styles
It's not my proposals for style which matter, though I will argue to whoever want to listen for trad style as potentially more personally satisfying than resting on pro, working stuff to death or setting up the pro ahead of time, bolt or otherwise. Just doesn't fill the soul as full as the alternative, I'd say.
But the main point I keep saying is where the trad/sport riff gets hot (doesn't seem to be at the moment in Yosemite or Meadows) the two camps of trad and sport should strive toward a resolution they can live by. One simple solution coming from Britain but less here is to agree on which cliffs, faces, domes, or whatever will be for trad versus sport. The other option is what was done in Pinnacles where climbers agreed not to divide up the cliffs, but compromise on protection style everywhere. They agreed to no more rap bolting, so ground up only, but hooks OK. I was in the minority on that one arguing for no hooks, but lost. I'm fine with that - as I say, it's not my preferences which should rule, but what brings peace.
How are agreements implemented? Again, Pinnacles is a pretty good model. The Friends of Pinnacles made-up of a range of climbers was formed to make known the agreement through meetings, brochures, and Park Service promotion. All sees quiet there after very big wars between climbers and Park Service threats to close cliffs. Sure a better model than one imposed by land managers, as per Eldorado where permits are needed for new routes and a much different regulatory committee oversees things.
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