Tricksters and Traditionalists

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Tricksters should reconsider what their climbing styles are doing to others and change their actions. First, where preprotecting, rehearsing, and aid ladders are employed, they should be widely reported. Guidebooks and climbing magazines should report the style of ascent. Without this information, other climbers cannot know what challenge has been set before them. Trusting climbers who presume traditional styles of ascent may even be endangered as they try to repeat certain routes. Second, tricksters should stop using their techniques on new routes in areas where first-ascent possibilities are scarce and where other climbers want to employ traditional styles. Third, and as a last resort, tricksters might confine themselves to places where the opportunities for new routes are plentiful. In such places they are less likely to happen upon established routes they feel need alteration in protection or in the rock itself. If they want to preprotect, rehearse, or create bolt ladders for free climbing, their actions will not greatly inconvenience traditionalists.



Bachar Near the top of Hardd. Lanny Johnson.